Though not formally acknowledged, Parfums Christian Dior seems to operate on a rolling 5- to 10-year schedule of reformulation across their entire stable of fragrances. So, when I heard whispers last year of a forthcoming Dior Homme reformulation, I was not at all surprised. What did pique my interest though was word that this new Dior Homme was to forgo the fragrance’s celebrated iris note. Enter, Dior Homme Eau de Toilette (2020).
An olfactory confection of lipstick iris and chocolatey cacao over more typically masculine aromatic notes, Dior Homme launched in 2005 as Dior’s interpretation of what the Dior Man was at the time; sophisticated, enigmatic as he was elusive, but romantic at heart. Six years on in 2011, new in-house Dior Perfumer-Creator François Demachy took it upon himself to rework Olivier Polge’s original composition, “pairing down” some of the original’s eccentricities, but maintaining the overall DNA of Dior Homme, even across an assortment of flankers. Now in 2020, Demachy has again reformulated Dior Homme, this time taking the scent in an entirely new direction, one meant to redefine the concept of the Dior Man for the new decade.
True to my nose, Dior’s own notes list for Dior Homme Eau de Toilette lists:
bergamot, pink pepper, elemi, cedar, patchouli, Cashmeran, white musk, vetiver, Iso E Super
Demachy describes this Dior Homme as “a fragrance overdosed with carnal woody notes, and it represents a return to the basics: classic and simplicity. It is clear, clean, gentle, and woody but also slightly sweet, and wears like a second skin.” On skin, this is all true, except for the notion of carnality of which there is none to be found.
Piquant, herbal pink pepper with the softest hint at bergamot open the composition, lingering for a long while over the gossamer veil of elemi, sun-baked cedar and patchouli at the heart of Dior Homme. Past the pepper forward opening and heart, the composition settles entirely into synthetics – in the way most modern designer scents do – with hefty doses of Cashmeran, Iso E Super and white musk. The result, a laundry fresh, very softly ambered woody base that with the remnant flourishes of elemi makes for an accord reminiscent of dry, salty driftwood.
Where Dior Homme once represented what the Dior Man was, Dior Homme Eau de Toilette feels like that the olfactory culmination of what the Dior Man wants in 2020: clean, contemporary sophistication with an androgynous edge (yes, women too will enjoy this Homme). On the back of releases like Sauvage and Joy – neither of which I enjoy one iota – Dior Homme Eau de Toilette is a welcome addition to the Parfums Christian Dior lineup.
Year of Release: 2020
Perfumer: François Demachy
Alternatives: Byredo Super Cedar, CHANEL Bleu de CHANEL, IIUVO Soigné
Available: MYER, David Jones and www.dior.com from $107, 50ml