The delicate beauty of iris married to vetiver’s airiness, ethereal incense and bitter galbanum in Prada’s 2007 Infusion d’Iris was met with much fanfare, quickly cementing itself a reputation as a crowd favourite and commercial success. I never could understand then why the expansion of the Infusion line around other raw materials first in 2010 as a limited edition series before permanent reissue in 2015 was so overlooked, especially when releases like Infusion de Vetiver were just as good as, if not a more intriguing prospect than Infusion d’Iris.
It’s smoky, earthy and wood nuanced essence derived from roots of an aromatic grass, vetiver is indeed a note that has been done to the hilt; some of the best examples include Chanel’s Sycomore, Guerlain Vetiver, Lalique Encre Noire and Frédéric Malle’s Vétiver Extraordinaire – legends. Prada’s own luminous adaption on the note is itself worthy of such fine company.
Accurate in my experience, Prada’s notes list for Infusion de Vétiver is such:
vetiver, ginger, neroli, bergamot, rose
The naturally astringent citrus character of vetiver opens the composition in tandem with actual citrus in the form of bergamot and neroli, which combined make for an accord that backbones the composition throughout its evolution. Soon enough, Infusion de Vétiver warms on the skin, turning sultry with fresh, spicy ginger and gently crushed lemon-nuanced rose petals. Only in the dry down does the elegantly complex vetiver take centre stage with its ever evolving citrus and smoky characteristics, and even then, it is beautifully buoyed by transparent hints of ginger and rose that never completely leave my skin. A composition of delicate layers, each sheer enough to hint at those below or above, Infusion de Vétiver has an inherent powderiness as one would expect from an Infusion release.
A radiant and perfectly executed sheer-structured rendition of more typically heavier woody note, Infusion de Vétiver has a wholesome, rejuvenating quality that is perfectly suited to wear during Australia’s hot summers – a sort of freshness elixir.
Year of Release: 2015 after limited release in 2010
Perfumer: Daniela Andrier
Alternatives: Annick Goutal Vetiver Cologne, Jo Malone Vetyver
Available: David Jones for $210, 100ml.