Some fragrances play a much greater role in perfumery than might be thought at first glance. A masculine chypre of 1978 composed by an unknown perfumer who is credited with only this single release, Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme is one of those. Now synonymous with “old fashioned” men’s fragrance and discount bins, VCA Pour Homme played a formative role in masculine perfumery in the ‘80s – it broke free of the more typical fougère style of the era, proved a commercial success in doing so and did so with such aplomb that it became a reference masculine rose for everybody from Amouage to Trussardi.
More than four decades since its release, who knows what the official notes list might have been because it certainly can’t be found online. Basenotes does though offer us:
bergamot, basil, marjoram, juniper, jasmine, patchouli, orris, carnation, vetiver, cedarwood, leather, oakmoss, olibanum, labdanum, castoreum, amber, musk
Having worn VC&A Pour Homme for many years, I would suggest a notes list closer to:
aldehydes, bergamot, basil, marjoram, clary sage, artemisia, pink pepper, juniper, galbanum, jasmine, caraway, rose, eugenol, vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli, leather, oakmoss, castoreum, labdanum, musk
Kouros, Lagerfeld Classic, Polo, Azzaro Pour Homme and Patou Pour Homme – when you think of those releases of the late ‘70s and early ‘80s, all have a characteristic fullness to their compositions. Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme is no different. It opens with a dark rush of savoury herbs and tart bergamot, together casting a green shadow over a velvety red rose rendered soapy by the inclusion of big, fatty aldehydes in the style of Amouage Gold. In the heart, galbanum adds to bitter greenness of the rose accord while jasmines lends added plushness. Despite its floralcy at this point, VCA Pour Homme is unmistakably masculine; the warm piquancy of eugenol contrasting the darkness of patchouli and acrid verdure of artemisia position it firmly in the realm of old-school masculine releases. Its atmosphere already dark and decadent, VCA Pour Homme settles into something even more shamelessly brawny in the drydown as the rose finally relents its hold on the composition to reveal a rough and ready base of amber-nuanced isobutyl quinoline, at least in my early 2000s bottle. Isobutyl quinoline – a base and fixative with nuances of intense castoreum leather, oakmoss, and earthy vetiver – likely replaced the natural castoreum and oakmoss in a reformulation subsequent to release.
An old-school masculine as dark and retro as the design of its bottle, Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme is today an incredibly affordable classic to be picked up at a price that belies its rich, dense and utterly distinguished character and history. A reference rose-leather for anyone looking.
Year of Release: 1978
Perfumer: Louis Monnet
Alternatives: Amouage Gold Man, Amouage Lyric Man
Available: Discounters from $30, 100ml